Tag Archives: Tangaliya

The craft roots of Tangaliya

This weekend (24th – 26th of March) a Craftroots exhibition will be held at Rajpath Club, Ahmedabad. (View invitation here: e-invitation-craftroots). Rweaves will be present at this exhibition, with a variety of Tangaliya, Patola, Khadi and Best-out-of-Waste products! To warm you up for this event, we’d like to give you some background information about Tangaliya.

Tangaliya is a weaving art native to the Dangashiya community of Surendranagar, Gujarat. The Dangashiya community is a mixed community of weavers and shepherds (Bharwad). The weavers made blankets and shawls out of sheep and goat wool for the shepherds to wear. They developed a special technique of weaving, also known as Dana work, only known to the Dangashiya community. Tiny dots of extra weft are twisted around a number of warp threads, giving an effect of bead embroidery to the fabric. This intricate process of twisting extra weft while weaving creates beautiful geometrical patterns and forms.

Tangaliya is woven on a pitloom: a small ans simple loom that is installed in a pit. The loom is operated by two footpedals (in the pit), leaving the hands of the weaver free for the dana-work. Traditionally, a tangaliya shawl is about 10 feet long and 4 feet wide. Shepherds wear it in the fields and their women wear It over a petticoat on special occasions. A traditional pitloom is 2 feet wide. To make a traditional shawl, a 20 feet long piece of fabric is cut in two and then the sides are stitched together.

Nowadays Tangaliya work is made in fine cotton and is used for a wide range of other products. Rweaves helps the artisans from SUVAS* to brand their products and to make contemporary designs to ensure them of a sustainable livelihoods.  Recently Tangaliya obtained the GI tag (Geographical Indication), confirming  the uniqueness of this weaving art.

If you want to see how Tangaliya is made, please visit Rweaves at the Craftroots exhibition. A loom will be installed and you can watch the artisans perform their weaving skills.

* SUVAS is a federation of rural artisans from Surendranagar, Gujarat. SUVAS is promoted by the National Institute of Fashion Technology (NIFT), Gandhinagar, in association with Saath Livelihood Services and CARE India.

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Launching Rweaves!

Saath has been working with Patola, Tangaliya and cotton weaving artisans from Surendranagar since 2006 through the Snehal project supported by CARE India. The project ended in 2009 and through it, a Federation was set up of the artisans. Today the artisans have better linkages to raw materials and can purchase them at an affordable rate from the Raw material banks set up through the Self Help Groups. However, marketing is still a problem for these artisans. Most of them have to individually seek out retailers and wholesalers who will sell their product, or if they are lucky individual buyers seek them out.

What is R-weaves?

After 4 years of working with artisans along with NIFT in improving their access to affordable credit and developing contemporary designs for more marketable products, Saath has recognised a need to link artisans to markets and also to increase their profits by developing a marketing and retail outlet in Ahmedabad for sale of Tangaliya, Patola and Cotton products.

Patola

Patola is a weave, the raw material used for patolas is traditionally silk. In comparison this Patola is from Patan in Gujarat. However the Patola that we refer to here is the one from Surendranagar district. It is a single ikat (Ikat is the Indonesian word that means knot). Weaving these products is an intensive process that include the entire family from dyeing of the silk threads, marking the design and then the weaving. A saree takes approximately 10-12 days to complete from the very first process of spinning the silk onto a spindle.

The products in Patola have been diversified from traditional sarees to stoles, scarves, cushion covers. Similarly more contemporary designs have been introduced along with the traditional patola weave.

Tangaliya

A product of the Dangasiya community in Surendranagar District, the name originates from the cloth worn traditionally by the Bharwad community’s men (herdsmen), until very recently where it was adapted to the design of the weave, which is unique and labour intensive. Every dot in the design is made by the artisan wrapping yarn around a number of threads, which brings out the design on both sides.

Earlier only wool was used in making products especially shawls, and dhaablas (blankets), this has been expanded to using cotton and making products such as kurti materials, dupattas, cushion covers, napkins, coatis etc.

Best out of Waste

India has always been a land of making the most out of a resource and in a similar effort families in Surendranagar use old sarees to fashion foot mats, rugs, runners, and asans (long mats for seating diners traditionally). This innovation helps use old synthetic sarees and also supports entire families through the income earned.

Hand woven Cotton

In the land of Gandhi, where large machines today manufacture miles of yarn, there are still a few families that weave cotton on wooden looms preparing a blend of soft designs of this cool fabric. The material is sold by the metre, but one can also find sheets and curtains of these.

The Exhibition-Sale will be held:

Date: 6th—8th Aug 2010 (Friday-Sunday)

Time: 11:00 a.m. to 6: 00 p.m.

Venue: “Shree Ramdev Villa”, 1 – A, Aagman Row Houses, Nr. Satatya Heights, Prernatirth Derasar Road Jodhpur Gam,

Ahmedabad – 380 015